Java

Java is the political, geographic and economic centre of the Indonesia's 13,000 islands.  Its major cities include Jakarta in the west and Yogyakarta in the east.  It's a relatively small island (approximately the same size as England), but has a population of 112 million, accounting for 55% of the country's total population. The island is long and narrow in shape and its central spine is dominated by hundreds of volcanoes, many of which are still very evidently active; their fertile slopes support a landscape of glimmering padi fields spotted with countless small villages. 

It was on Java that the Hindu-Buddhist empires reached their peak, producing architectural wonders such as Borobudur and Prambanan.  When Islam came to the island in the 15th century, it absorbed rather than erased local cultures, leaving Java with an amazing mix of historic influences and religions.  A strong consciousness of ancient religious and mystical thought carries over into present-day Java, protecting against wholesale modernisation.

To the south of the volcanic backbone is the homeland of the ethnic Javanese and the centre of their arts, culture and language, epitomized by the royal courts of Yogyakarta and Solo.  Still steeped in traditional dance, music and art, these two cities are the mainstay of Java's tourist industry and offer first-rate facilities for travellers.  They also provide excellent bases from which to explore the giant ninth-century Buddhist temple Borobudur, and the equally incredible Prambanan complex, a contemporary Hindu site.  And if you're feeling adventurous you can check out the highly dangerous Merapi volcano.

More volcanoes to the east, including the massive caldera containing the smoking Gunung Bromo - a major stop on most travellers' itineraries, not least for the sunrise walk to its summit.  Other volcanic landscapes include the coloured lakes of the windswept Dieng plateau, the stunning crater lake and sulphur mines of the Ijen Plateau, and the world's most famous – and destructive – volcano, Krakatau off the coast of west Java. 

Many travellers opt for a spell in Pangandaran, which boasts crashing surf, endless expanses of sand, superb seafood and a national park on its doorstep.  Aside from Yogya, Java's cities are not that enticing, but Jakarta, the chaotic sprawl that is Indonesia's capital, does boast several worthwhile museums.  Once you've exhausted the pleasures of Java you can move easily on to neighbouring islands – Sumatra is just ninety minutes' ferry ride from Merak in the west; Bali a mere half hour from Banyuwangi in the east.

Oh - and the roads are better than many parts of Indonesia and it also has a pretty good rail service - thank God.

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